A Perfect Day in Montmartre

No visit to Paris is complete without a stop in Montmartre, the area famous for its artists, cabarets, and the Sacré-Cœur Basilica floating above the city. Montmartre includes the highest point in Paris, and this winter Parisians delighted in tobogganing down its slopes after a rare snowstorm.

Val and I visited recently and I thought I’d share our itinerary with you. It included some of the top sites, a delicious lunch at a friendly restaurant, and coffee at the café where part of the movie Amélie was filmed.

Read all about it in Bonjour Paris!

The Greatest French People of All Time

Top Ten lists are always fun, so I decided to make one of my own: the greatest French people of all time.

Of course, there is no way to really decide. Is Marie Curie more important than Louis Pasteur? Is Victor Hugo the most important French writer, or is it Flaubert, or Proust? And how do you rank all those monarchs and emperors?

Be that as it may, I made my list. Who do you think I missed?

Read all about it in France Today!

 

Fine Dining in Maillane

Sleepy little Maillane, just a few minutes from St-Rémy, has a new restaurant that’s really good. As in really, really good.

Maison Bernard’s thirty-something chef, Jérémy Scalia, has already been awarded a coveted Michelin star at another restaurant. But Michelin stars lead to stratospheric prices, and Scalia didn’t want that. Instead, he wanted “accessible gastronomy, offering a refined culinary experience while remaining affordable.”

Maison Bernard is not the sort of place you eat at all the time, but when you do, you are in for a treat.

Read all about it in Perfectly Provence!

 

 

France’s Republican Guard

Today is a big day in France. First, it’s the Fête Nationale, what we call Bastille Day, which commemorates the beginning of the French Revolution. It’s also the day France plays in the semifinals of the World Cup–allez les Bleus !

One of the highlights of the Fête Nationale is the giant parade down the Champs Élysées. My favorite part is the Republican Guard, respondent in their uniforms as they ride along on horseback.

The Republican Guard is one of those quirky institutions that France is so good at. They protect the presidential palace, greet foreign dignitaries, put on precision marching shows and historical reenactments, and even provide security for the oyster farms of Normandy! You might have seen their marching band playing (and swaying) behind Aya Nakamura during the opening ceremony of the Paris Olympics.

Learn more about the oh-so-French Republican Guard in Bonjour Paris!

Hail César! A Great Restaurant in the Luberon

My favorite restaurant in the Luberon Valley is César, in Bonnieux. It has excellent, reasonably-priced food, a lovely view over the valley, and a charming chef. Val and I go as often as we can.

This chef, Stéphanie Intem, describes herself as “a passionate, self-taught chef and an artist at heart. My restaurant reflects who I am; I created it to be unique and in my image.”

Her dishes are indeed small works of art, a pleasure to see and to eat. She changes her menu with the seasons, to take advantage of the wonderful produce of Provence. But some ingredients remain constant throughout the year, like lamb, bull, sea bass, and sea bream. One of her specialties is stuffed vegetables, and her foie gras is available from April through November.

Have I made you hungry yet? Read more about this excellent restaurant in Perfectly Provence!

 

A Unique French Room

I thought you might enjoy Val and I sharing our perspectives on something quite unique: the French bathroom.

Val

You know that Keith and I have been living part-time in France for quite some time.  I enjoy the differences in the lifestyle between the US and France.  Each has its strengths and weaknesses, but I try to focus on and enjoy the great sides of each culture.

And then, there is bathroom design.

A while ago we were in the lovely town of Rennes, sitting in the warm sunshine, on a charming cafe terrace, surrounded by half-timbered houses.  Before moving on to explore the town, Keith suggested we follow the age-old advice: never pass up an opportunity to visit the facilities.

Keith went first, carrying out his husbandly duties to check them out to make sure they met, well, my standards.  He reported that they passed muster and indicated that all I needed to do was walk inside and go down the stairs to find the bathroom.

Following his advice, when I made it down the narrow staircase I found myself in a very small space.  Sinks on the right, a urinoir on the left (I think it is pretty clear what this French word means) and an enclosed bathroom straight ahead, as had been described.

But what had NOT been described was that there was a man on said left… in process.

Not knowing what to do, I rushed past him, mumbling pardon monsieur, moving into the bathroom and locking the door as quickly as I could.

Wow, that was awkward!

I am looking forward to the day when urinoir doors become fashionable in France.

Keith

Take a look at this photo of our hotel room bathroom from a recent trip. It looks nice, right? But something is missing.

Look hard and you will notice…there is no shower curtain.

We find this all the time in France, a shower without a door or a curtain. Which means that when we use it, we get water everywhere. It’s a mess.

So why don’t the French use shower curtains, that’s what I want to know. Do they have special hydraulics that cause the water to bend in non-splashy ways? Do they contort themselves like circus performers, so the water only bounces back into the shower? Do their bodies absorb water in a way that causes it not to splash?

Maybe it’s like the way French people can eat croissants without getting crumbs all over. Or the way they instinctively know how to tie their scarves.

It’s a mystery.

Ready-to-Eat in St-Rémy

Sometimes you don’t want to cook, and if you are near St-Rémy, you’re in luck. For a simple but tasty meal, or fixings for a picnic, head to Rôtisserie Poulette. Just a short walk from the center of St-Rémy, this artisanal rotisserie is run by Lisa and Andreas, a young couple with deep roots in the area.

Poulette offers a range of roasted, smoked, and slow-cooked meats: chicken, turkey, lamb, sausage, and more. For a bit of elegance, there is even chicken cordon bleu, made with Comté cheese.

If you’d like something to accompany your main course, there are many side dishes to choose from. These include roast potatoes, corn on the cob, sautéed vegetables, and gratins—the selection changes with the seasons. And don’t forget the desserts! Everything is made fresh daily, right on the premises.

Learn more about Rôtisserie Poulette at Perfectly Provence!

Vignettes of Life in France

Val and I spend part of the year in France, mostly in St-Rémy-de-Provence, but we also travel around the country from time to time. I thought I would share of a few stories of what our life here is like.

Getting Sneaky

Rennes is a beautiful town, full of half-timbered houses, and also the former capital of Brittany. We stopped over for a night on the way to see some friends, and we were advised not to miss the Brittany Parliament building, which is quite beautiful inside. Unfortunately, it now houses an appeals court and when we entered, a scary armed guard informed us quite firmly that only guided tours were allowed.

We slunk outside and researched these tours, only to find there were none that day. While we were searching on our phones to decide what to do next, a lady nearby asked us where we were from. She had come outside from the parliament building to have a smoke, and we had a nice chat. Then Val and I went back to checking our phones.

While Val scrolled away, I decided to be a little sneaky and told the lady it was a shame we couldn’t see the inside, as we had come all the way to Rennes and would be leaving soon. “No problem” she said, “come in with me.”

She the proceeded to breeze past the scary armed guard (“They’re with me”) and give us a tour of the place. It was so nice! It’s good to be a little sneaky sometimes.

Cocorico!

Our place in St-Rémy is across the street from a Catholic elementary school. Every weekday, we hear kids playing outside during lunch and recess. And sometimes there are school events for the parents where we hear music and laughter and raffle numbers being called out. It’s all quite charming

We learned last year that the priest lives in an apartment attached to the school. Aha, we thought, that explains all the chickens in the yard. I guess the priest likes eggs.

This year we discovered a new resident, a rooster. I say “discovered” because we heard him before we saw him. And heard him. And heard him! This is one enthusiastic rooster. It’s cocorico all day long, which is the French equivalent of cockadoodledoo. Even our friends who live two blocks away can hear him.

But he must be a happy rooster, the only male among a bunch of hens. I imagine he wakes up every morning and says to himself, “Baby, I’m going to go forth and multiply!”

A Provençal Bottleneck

We were driving to a nearby town when we suddenly found ourselves in a long line of cars, all stopped for some reason. The road bent about 20 cars ahead so we couldn’t see what the problem was. Road work? An accident? An alien sighting?

We checked Google Maps to see how far ahead the blockage was, but it said everything was fine. That meant that whatever happened was so recent that Google hadn’t yet caught up. This ruled out road work, and we didn’t hear any sirens that would indicate an accident, so I was really hoping for that alien.

Then traffic started to move and when we got around the bend, we saw what had caused the slowdown: a shepherd had moved his flock from one side of the road to the other. But of course! This happens regularly.

Maybe we need some sheep-crossing signs.

 

Trying to Donate Blood in France

There’s a blood drive coming to St-Rémy, which reminds me of my failed attempts to donate blood in France.

The last time I tried, I ended up with the world’s meanest nurse. I had filled out all the correct forms and was ready for her questions but she was so aggressive that she made me nervous. As in terrified. This caused my normally-placid blood pressure to shoot up so high that I was disqualified. When I told my neighbor about this she said, “Oh, you got her? Bad luck, she’s a well-known connasse.” (= rude French word)

The time before this, I was rejected for insufficient command of the French language. Yes, you have to speak decent French before you can donate blood! Read my story here to find out why.

Picasso in Provence

This year’s program at Les Baux’s Carrières des Lumières features the Spanish master Pablo Picasso, perhaps the most influential artist of the 20th century. For those who haven’t been to the Carrières, it’s a must-see if you are in the area: the world’s greatest sound-and-light show, held inside a giant cavern. It’s like nothing else on earth.

The short program features Frida Kahlo, the brilliant Mexican artist, and on certain days there is also a special program dedicated to The Little Prince. Something for the whole family!

Read all about it in Perfectly Provence!