A Beautiful Art, Wine, and Food Center in Provence

Just minutes from Aix-en-Provence is a site unique in the region: Château La Coste. Whether you enjoy food, wine, art, or all three, it is definitely worth a stop.

Twenty years ago, Château La Coste was an unremarkable winery set in a beautiful location. Then a new owner decided to change things up. He dramatically upgraded the quality of the wines, hired the world-famous architect Tadao Ando to design an art center, and invited sculptors from around the world to work their magic around the property. Oh, and he added six restaurants, a luxury hotel, and a wellness center.

Today Château La Coste is a definite stop to add to your Provençal itinerary, whether for a meal, a stay, or just to taste wine and enjoy spectacular artworks.

Read all about it in Frenchly!

Southern Rhône Valley Wine Guide

I’m sometimes asked about my favorite wines, and it always makes me think of France’s Rhône Valley. It’s long and skinny, going from Lyon down almost to the Mediterranean Sea, and it has wonderful wines at all price points.

I’ve written a couple of guides to these wines, because the wines are different in the northern and southern parts of this region. My guides aren’t too complicated or wine geeky, just some basic information that might be helpful to someone interested in learning more. I’ve previously written about the wines of the northern Rhône and this guide is about the south.

Read about some of my favorite wines in The Wine Scribes!

How to Kiss a French Person

It’s one of those French customs that mystifies foreigners: les bises (also called bisous). This is where French people kiss each other on the cheek.

It raises so many questions, like…when to do it? How to do it? How many times? And is it the same everywhere in France?

I’ve taken a deep dive into the history and practice of this most French of social customs. Let me share what I’ve learned–you might be surprised by a few things!

Read all about it in My French Life!

The Liberation of Aix-en-Provence

The 1944 D-Day landings of Normandy began the liberation of France, and the country has been celebrating this and other important events throughout the year. The latest is Aix-en-Provence, which just opened an important photo exhibition called Shadows and Light. This show, which runs through October 27, includes many rarely-seen photos from the years immediately before, during, and after World War II.

Taken from the historic Ely photo collection, visitors will see images that will alternately surprise, shock, and delight them. Many of the photos were taken surreptitiously, when photography was prohibited during the Nazi occupation.

If you are not able to visit Aix but would like to see a sample of the photos from the exhibition, check out this article in Perfectly Provence!

What’s in a Name? Popular Street Names in France

French streets have names, of course. Many are basic, reflecting their location. For example, the most popular street name in France is Rue de l’Église (Church Street). In the US it is Main Street and in the UK it is High Street.

But what about streets that honor people, how are they different in each country? Americans are fond of their presidents, so the most popular names are Washington and Lincoln. The UK loves its monarchy, with Kings, Queens, Victoria, and Windsor the top choices. 

And how about France? The French aren’t fans of kings and queens, that business back in 1789 having dimmed their enthusiasm. Instead, they name their streets after famous figures from their history—political and military leaders, scientists, authors, and the like.

What do you think are the most popular names? Find out in France Today!

Provençal Legends: Mont Ventoux and the Mistral

I always thought that Mont Ventoux came by its name because it is windy at the top, and venteux means “windy” in French. It’s a common misconception, but it’s not true. In fact, the word comes from Vintur, an ancient god worshiped by the Albiques, a Celtic tribe that once lived in the area.

Not only that, but the Mistral, the famous and sometimes-violent wind of Provence, is actually Vintur’s son! He’s a capricious child who throws tantrums when he doesn’t want to go to bed, hence the wildness of the wind. And there used to be an Albique ceremony to calm the boy and get him to go nighty-night.

I learned this in a very entertaining book called Le Dit du Mistral by Olivier Mak-Bouchard. It’s a fun story, full of legends and local expressions (though while most of the legends are true I suspect there’s some artistic license from time to time.)

Read more about these Provençal legends in Perfectly Provence!

Behind the Scenes at the Paris Olympics

 

The Paris Olympics are over, and what a show it was! From Céline Dion singing on the Eiffel Tower to athletes like Léon Marchand and Simone Biles winning gold, it was quite a sight to behold. But what was it like behind the scenes?

A friend of mine worked in the Olympic Village and has shared her stories with me. Want to know the most popular dish among the six Olympic restaurants? Or what it was like to shake hands with the President of France?

Read all about it in Bonjour Paris!

Candlelight Concerts in Provence

Imagine sitting in a comfortable seat in an ancient Roman city. As the sun sets, you can see thousands of candles among the ruins, perched on stone walls, stairs, and fallen columns.

The sky darkens and the candles begin to glow. Then a string quartet comes out and starts to play beautiful music. It is an experience that can only be described as magical.

My wife and I enjoyed that magic in June in the ancient Roman city of Glanum near where we live St-Rémy-de-Provence. It was part of a series of concerts being held this summer throughout Provence, and they promise to be spectacular!

Read all about these summer candlelight concerts in Perfectly Provence!

Part-Time Living in Provence

International Living is an excellent resource for people thinking of moving abroad. The magazine has correspondents around the world, experts in different countries, and holds regular seminars for those who want to learn about taking the plunge.

Val and I were interviewed by their French correspondent about our part-time life in St-Rémy-de-Provence. How did we decide to do it, how did we choose where to live, how much does it cost? For those of you dreaming of a French life, you might find it interesting.

Read all about it in International Living!

How Burgundy Changed a Young Man’s Life

Jesse Schwartz is a young American winemaker with vineyards in Portugal and the United States. Many such winemakers grow up in families that have been making wine for generations, but Jesse’s path was different.

A few years ago, Jesse was working at a corporate job when he fell in love with Burgundy wine. He wanted to know everything about it and decided to work a harvest there. He learned some basic French, travelled to Burgundy, and started knocking on doors.

He had no luck for a while—who wants an inexperienced American who barely speaks the language? But he persevered and finally came across a small winemaker in Rully who not only took him on for a 3-month internship, but also housed and fed him.

The experience was life changing. Jesse’s corporate job didn’t feed his soul, but this was different! He decided to completely change direction and now makes his own wine. It is inspiring to see someone follow their heart.

You can read more about Jesse at France Today, but the article is behind their paywall (it’s a great magazine, you might consider subscribing!) Or you can learn more about Jesse and his winemaking at his website or on Instagram.