A Magical French Sculpture Park

Charente-Maritime is a small département in western France, wedged between Bordeaux to the south and Brittany further north. It makes up part of France’s Atlantic coastline and is best known for places like the fortified seaport of La Rochelle and Île de Ré, a favorite vacation spot for Parisians seeking sun and sea.

Charente-Maritime also hosts Rochefort, where artisans painstakingly recreated Hermione, the frigate that Lafayette sailed to bring aid to the American Revolution. And it was on the nearby island of Aix that Napoleon last touched French soil before his exile in St. Helena.

But not all of Charente-Maritime’s charms are seaside. If you go inland a few miles, you’ll find a little-known treasure: one of the world’s great sculpture parks, Les Lapidiales.

A History of Stone

The region has been a source of stone since Roman times, and near the town of Pont-d’Envaux sits an abandoned quarry that has been worked since the 12th century. It is in a quiet area, in the middle of a forest—not a place you would visit unless you had a reason to.

In 2001 Alain Tenenbaum, a local artist, created that reason. He had the idea of turning this quiet spot into a sculpture park. So he began raising funds and when he had enough he started inviting sculptors.

One of the features of the quarry is that it is full of vertical walls, perfect for carving. Tenenbaum separated the quarry into zones, each with a different theme, then let the sculptors have at it. The walls of the quarry are big—some as high as six meters—so the carvings are very large.

Step by step, year by year, the quarry was transformed. Dozens of sculptors from around the world came and carved, each leaving their mark. And the results are quite extraordinary.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dHPBfVfXEeQ

But there’s one problem: the quarry has run out of space.

A Galaxy of Art

So Alain Tenenbaum, never one to rest, had a new idea. He would create a sister site, La Galaxie des Pierres Levées (the galaxy of raised stones.)

Near Les Lapidiales, Tenenbaum built his new sculpture park, this time in a large field. The theme is world culture, featuring art from the five continents. Tenenbaum has arranged hundreds of stone pedestals in the form of a spiral, as his idea is to create a showcase of art, expanding ever outward like a galaxy.

Every year, 5-7 sculptors are invited to be artists in residence. They are given a monolith—a block of stone about 2.5 meters high. This they carve over a period of several months, and the resulting sculpture is mounted on one of the pedestals in the galaxy. To date there are over 60 completed sculptures, with the goal of eventually having 2-300.

World Culture

The program began in 2012 and each year artists are invited from a different part of the world, such as the Caribbean and the Baltic Sea—this year from Japan and Korea. They do their sculpting at the entrance to Les Lapidiales, so you can admire their work as it takes shape, and sometimes have a chat.

The goal of the program is not only to create new art for the Galaxy, but also to share the culture of the artists’ home region. So during their residency, they visit local schools to discuss their country and its culture, sometimes accompanied by poetry readings or short theatrical productions.

Today Les Lapidiales and La Galaxie des Pierres Levées attract over 75,000 visitors a year, but they are big enough that they are never crowded. This is certainly a unique spot to consider for visitors to this western corner of France.

 

A Gem on France’s Mediterranean Coast

It’s one of the prettiest towns on France’s Mediterranean coast and one of the country’s sunniest. But while international tourists flock to Nice, Antibes, and St-Tropez, lovely little Sanary-sur-Mer remains relatively undiscovered.

Sanary was founded as a fishing village in the 16th century. Fishermen still ply their trade there, and today the town is a popular retirement destination for the French, with its bustling shops and cafés and one of the best weekly markets in France.

Read all about this pretty coastal town in Perfectly Provence!

All About French Literature

France is a famously literary country. The country’s authors have won more Nobel Prizes in Literature than any other, and the French read more books than anyone else—a whopping 17 per year!

I’ve put together a few articles for those interested in French literature. Want to know about a top crime novelist? Or the bad boy of French literature? Or maybe you are interested in graphic novels, which the French adore.

I’ve also got the story of a forgotten French masterpiece that’s been called “possibly the best-selling novel of all time”!

You can read all about these and more in My French Life!

The Crown Jewels of France: Where Are They Now?

The British crown jewels are known the world over, with their brilliant diamonds and pieces like the crown, the scepter and the orb. They played an essential role in last year’s coronation of King Charles and are one of London’s major tourist attractions. 

Why are the British crown jewels so famous but we rarely hear about the French ones? It’s because the French crown jewels were sold. Yes, sold! It happened over a century ago, after a political crisis. And curiously, some may soon be coming home.

Read the fascinating story of the French crown jewels in France Today!

Living Part-Time in Provence

I was asked recently to write about the part-time life that Val and I are lucky enough to enjoy in Provence. With pleasure, I said, and away I went.

I wrote about what it’s like to learn a new language and how it has changed my life, as well as some of the French mistakes I’ve made (oops, that marijuana thing.) And I wrote about  the grenade that Val once launched into the middle of a dinner conversation with French friends. And then there’s the question I’ve recently had as to whether French people love each other.

You can read all about it at Ohlala!

 

 

The Tarot Garden of Niki de Saint-Phalle

Niki de Saint-Phalle was a French-American artist who was ahead of her time. She was a performance artist before it was a thing, created perfumes with her own branding before others copied her, had a personal style so confident that Gloria Steinem called her “the first free woman I’ve ever seen,” and was a remarkable artist.

Her masterpiece is the Tarot Garden in southern Tuscany, where she created huge, colorful sculptures of the 22 major arcana of the tarot. It was inspired by Gaudi’s fantastical Parc Guell in Barcelona, and having seen both I have to say that Saint-Phalle has surpassed the master.

The Tarot Garden is spread over 14 acres and each sculpture is stunning. They are so intricate that it took Saint-Phalle over two decades to create them all, and one is so big that she lived inside it while she worked!

To learn more about Niki de Saint-Phalle and her art, and to see beautiful photos of the Tarot Garden, check out this article in Frenchly!

My Favorite Winery

Nestled among vineyards near the village of Gigondas sits Notre Dame des Pallières, a family-run winery specializing in the wines of the southern Rhône. Val and I go every year to stock up, and we’ve never been disappointed.

I first discovered their wines over 20 years ago in California. They were so good and so reasonably priced that Val and I sought out the winery when we started living in Provence. We’ve been back ever since, and in the meantime the winemaking has passed from the 4th generation of the Roux family to the 5th!

For anyone interested in delicious wines that are not very expensive, either in France or the US, these are definitely bottles to search out.

Real all about this gem of a winery in Perfectly Provence!

The Fun (and Frustrations) of Learning French: A Teacher’s Perspective

Learning French is like riding une montagne russe (a rollercoaster) – you’ll experience thrilling peaks, sudden drops, and yes, those moments when you desperately want to jump off! After spending years guiding students through this incredible journey, I can tell you one thing with absolute certainty: it’s one wild adventure worth taking.

Why is French so…French?

Just when you think you’ve got French figured out, it loves to surprise you! Take gendered nouns, for example. Why on earth is a table (une table) feminine while a desk (un bureau) masculine? Trust me, there’s no secret code to crack here!

Speaking of gender mix-ups, I’ll never forget this hilarious moment in class. A student was telling me about his weekend, bubbling with excitement about buying “une chiotte” (a toilet). He went on about how thrilled his whole family was about this purchase. I sat there thinking, “Why are they so excited about buying a toilet?” Turns out he meant to say “un chiot” – a puppy!

The poor guy was trying to make the word feminine since it was a female puppy, but “chiot” doesn’t work that way. While we do say “un chien” and “une chienne” for adult dogs, with puppies we keep it simple: “un chiot mâle” for boys and “un chiot femelle” for girls…

Then there’s pronunciation, a true test of patience. My students often joke that French was designed to trip them up. I’ve spent countless hours helping students navigate the subtle differences between sounds. Take those tricky vowels: “est”, “ai”, and “è” – all sounding identical but spelled completely differently. One little accent mark can change the whole meaning!

I’ll never forget the day a student proudly announced to her dinner guests that she had served them “poison” (poison) instead of “poisson” (fish). Or that mortifying moment when one of my students mixed up “baisser” and “baiser” (the F word) in front of her French boss… let’s just say one means “to lower” and the other is definitely NOT appropriate for workplace conversation! These tiny pronunciation differences can lead to some pretty memorable moments.

The puzzle of French grammar

Let’s talk about French grammar – it’s like a puzzle where the pieces keep changing shape! You know what drives my students crazy? Those sneaky verbs that sometimes use “avoir” and sometimes “être”. Picture this: you can say “J’ai descendu les escaliers” or “Je suis descendu(e) des escaliers” – both totally correct! The secret? It all depends on whether you’ve got a direct object. Mind-bending, right?

And don’t get me started on “lui”! My students always laugh when they learn that even though it means “him” in English, we use it for women too. So when I say “Ma sœur, je lui téléphone,” I’m actually talking about my sister. French just loves to keep things interesting!

Here’s the kicker – sometimes even native French speakers argue about what’s “correct”. But you know what? That’s what makes French so special. Sure, getting all these little details right feels like climbing Mount Everest sometimes, but it’s exactly these quirks that give French its beautiful precision and flair.

The real shock for many learners comes from their first encounter with native French speakers. Despite diligently studying textbook French, they’re thrown off by the reality of everyday spoken French – it’s like entering a whole new world! Native speakers blend words together, drop sounds, and chat at what feels like supersonic speed. Remember that textbook phrase “Je ne sais pas”? In real life, it often comes out as a quick “Ch’ais pas.” I’ve seen countless students freeze up when this happens. But here’s the thing – it’s totally normal to feel lost at first! That’s exactly why I created my eBook “Master Spoken French“. It helps bridge that tricky gap between classroom French and real-world conversations, so you can finally keep up with those rapid-fire French exchanges.

The real magic of learning French

My favorite part of teaching is watching students fall in love with French culture. Nothing beats seeing their faces light up when they catch their first French joke in a movie, or hearing them sprinkle “Ohlala” into their everyday conversations without thinking twice. French isn’t just about memorizing words – it’s about discovering a whole new way of seeing the world, feeling its unique rhythm, and capturing that special something… that je ne sais quoi.

Learning French is a wild ride. Some days you feel like you’re conquering the world, other days…not so much. But trust me, it’s worth every single moment. When my students share their success stories, I get so excited! Like Danielle, who messaged me after her trip to Paris: she managed a whole week without anyone switching to English – imagine her proud grin! Or take Davi, who landed this incredible job teaching skiing in the French Alps just because he could chat in both languages. They even bumped up his salary for being bilingual! These are the moments that make me love what I do.

Learning French opens up a whole new world – it’s your ticket to making friends across the globe, exploring France like a local, and maybe even landing that dream job abroad. Sure, you’ll spend hours wrestling with grammar and vocabulary, but it’s really about so much more. It’s about those little victories, like chatting with your French neighbor or ordering your morning croissant without stumbling over words.

Those “aha!” moments make all the hard work worth it. Like when you’re watching a French movie and suddenly realize you haven’t looked at the subtitles for the past five minutes. Or when you catch yourself thinking “C’est pas possible!” instead of “No way!” without even trying.

French isn’t just another line on your CV – it’s your passport to understanding Edith Piaf in her original words, savoring French cuisine with all its proper names, and connecting with over 300 million French speakers worldwide. Plus, let’s face it – there’s something undeniably charming about speaking French. It just adds that extra bit of sparkle to your personality!

My personal tips for French success

  1. Make friends with your mistakes! Trust me, they’re going to happen – I still make them after years of teaching. The good news? Most French people love seeing you try, even if it’s not perfect.
  2. Follow your heart! Love French movies? Watch them! Can’t get enough of French cooking? There are tons of amazing YouTube channels. When you’re having fun, the learning happens naturally.
  3. Keep it real with daily practice. Even just listening to a French song on your way to work counts! Need some fresh ideas? Check out my blog at Ohlala French Course – I share all my favorite tricks there.
  4. Get social! Nothing beats learning with others. Pop into a class, find a language buddy, or join us for coffee and chat. It’s way more fun than studying alone!

Let’s wrap this up!

Learning French is like falling in love – it has its ups and downs, but wow, what a journey! It pushes you to see things differently and discover parts of yourself you never knew existed. Sure, there are days when conjugations make you want to tear your hair out, but then there are those magical moments when everything just…clicks.

To everyone out there wrestling with French right now: hang in there! Remember, every “petit pas” counts. And hey, whenever you need a boost or just want to chat about your French adventures, pop by Ohlala French Course. We’re here to add some sparkle to your learning journey!

How Did the Hunchback Get His Name?

France has just celebrated the reopening of its iconic cathedral, Notre Dame, with a ceremony that brought together leaders from around the world. The cathedral dates back to the 12th century, but did you know that 200 years ago Victor Hugo helped save it?

Notre Dame was so badly damaged during the 1830 revolution that some thought it should be demolished. Then a year later, The Hunchback of Notre-Dame was published, a novel that championed the Gothic architecture of Notre Dame. It sparked  a national movement to restore the cathedral  to its former glory.

The novel’s central character is the hunchback, one of the most famous characters in French literature. He is known for his terrible deformities, his love for Esmerelda, and his unusual name. But where did “Quasimodo” come from? 

Find out in Bonjour Paris!

A Seaside Lunch on Provence’s Côte Bleue

Whenever Val and I get a taste for great seafood, we head south to the little port town of Niolon. It’s just a few miles west of Marseille but could be in another world.

The town is built around a small calanque, a kind of tiny fjord that opens onto the Mediterranean Sea. There are boats bobbing in the water and beautiful views of Marseille and the rugged coastline.

We always head for La Pergola, a restaurant with fabulous views and even better food. There’s nothing like eating fresh seafood and looking out at the sea from whence it came. And if we don’t feel like driving all the way to the coast, we can catch the train not far from St-Rémy and enjoy the view as we roll along.

Read all about Niolon and La Pergola in Perfectly Provence!