If Only She Had Washed Her Hands

It was early March nearly 20 years ago, when Val and I were just starting our three-month stays in Provence. We had taken a direct flight from San Francisco to Frankfurt, then drove from there, because we were taking our dog Lucca and didn’t want him to change planes.

We picked up our rental car and began the long drive south.  We were jet-lagged and didn’t want to drive too far, so after a few hours we stopped in the little French town of Montbéliard, arriving late in the afternoon.

After a quick shower we drove downtown and parked in the town’s main parking lot, an underground structure.  Unfortunately, we forgot that it was still winter and we were in northern France, so we only had on light jackets.  As soon as the sun went down it turned freezing cold, so we headed for a café to warm up.  After some hot coffee, we went to see if there was any place that would serve us at the ungodly early hour of 6pm.

We went to a casual bar/restaurant nearby and asked if we could order a meal.  After the barmaid finished laughing, we were reminded that this was France and the answer was “non.”  But we were invited to have a drink and wait until food service started at 7pm.  Not a bad idea, so we settled in with a couple of glasses of wine.

Things Start to Go Wrong

After a few minutes I excused myself to use the restroom.  It was a typical French setup, with separate bathrooms for men and women and a shared sink.  For security reasons, the women’s bathroom could only be accessed by a key from the bar.

I did my business, washed my hands and, because there were no towels, dried them with the air dryer.  When I came out Val said, “Wow, that dryer is loud, it sounds like a leaf blower.  You could hear it all over the bar!”

We were finishing our drinks and thinking about what to order when we saw a woman wearing an apron and clutching a key walk to the restrooms.  Clearly, the cook.

A few minutes later she walked back.  I asked Val, “Did you hear the air dryer?”  Uh, no.  And it was so loud it was impossible to miss.  The cook must not have washed her hands…I guess we weren’t hungry after all!

We braved the cold again to search out another restaurant.  We found a nice little place, had a quick meal and headed back to our car.  The timing was perfect because we were getting tired and bed sounded good.

But when we got to the parking lot we found it shut tight behind a huge metal gate.  What the…?  Then we saw a sign that said the lot closes at 8pm.  8pm?! Who ever heard of such a thing?

A Visit to the Gendarmerie

We found another sign that said to see the police if you need to get your car after 8pm, so we trudged off through the cold to the police station.   We explained the situation and were told that it would be “deux minutes” and that we should wait in the unheated hallway. We reluctantly sat down and waited for a half hour, but nothing happened.

Finally, we went back in and glared at the officers (politely, of course – they had guns.)  We were again told it would be “deux minutes” and this time it was.  Turns out there had been a shift change in progress and the old shift wanted to stick the new shift with our problem.

The new officers were friendly and gave us a card that would open a door into the parking lot.  All we had to do was look for it next to the video store, which was next to the supermarket.

Things Are Not As They Seem

No problem, we had seen the video store already.  So we plunged back into the cold, which was well below freezing at this point.  Grocery store?  Check.  Video store next to it?  Check.  Entry door into the parking garage?  Non.  We asked a few passersby and even the video store owner, but nobody knew what we were talking about.  So off we went once again, back to the police station.

Luckily, there were no crimes in progress because the next thing we knew we were in a squad car with three of Montbéliard’s finest.  They took a roundabout route, so we had a chance to chat in French with one of them.

He asked where we were from and when Val said “La Californie” he asked if we knew where Sacramento was.  Why yes, I said, I was born there.  Did I know about the Sacramento Kings, the pro basketball team?  Why, yes I did, and Chris Webber used to be their best player.  Alas, said the officer, he’s not the player he used to be, too old now.

We agreed on that and, having exhausted our common interests, spent the rest of the ride peering suspiciously out into the dark streets of Montbéliard, where criminal masterminds were undoubtedly plotting away.

Resolution

Eventually we made it to the center of town, where they showed us where we should have gone the first time.  Supermarket?  Check.  A different video store, not next to the market as described but rather down the block and around the corner?  Uh, check. Well-hidden door at the bottom of a dark staircase on the other side of the street?  Check again (really, who taught these guys how to give directions?)

At this point we thanked the police and shook their hands, while each group was silently thinking of the other, “What a bunch of dopes!”

We got to our car and drove back to our hotel.  The only good part of the whole adventure was that the parking was free, because we didn’t have to pay for the card!

Vignettes of Life in France

Val and I spend part of the year in France, mostly in St-Rémy-de-Provence, but we also travel around the country from time to time. I thought I would share of a few stories of what our life here is like.

Getting Sneaky

Rennes is a beautiful town, full of half-timbered houses, and also the former capital of Brittany. We stopped over for a night on the way to see some friends, and we were advised not to miss the Brittany Parliament building, which is quite beautiful inside. Unfortunately, it now houses an appeals court and when we entered, a scary armed guard informed us quite firmly that only guided tours were allowed.

We slunk outside and researched these tours, only to find there were none that day. While we were searching on our phones to decide what to do next, a lady nearby asked us where we were from. She had come outside from the parliament building to have a smoke, and we had a nice chat. Then Val and I went back to checking our phones.

While Val scrolled away, I decided to be a little sneaky and told the lady it was a shame we couldn’t see the inside, as we had come all the way to Rennes and would be leaving soon. “No problem” she said, “come in with me.”

She the proceeded to breeze past the scary armed guard (“They’re with me”) and give us a tour of the place. It was so nice! It’s good to be a little sneaky sometimes.

Cocorico!

Our place in St-Rémy is across the street from a Catholic elementary school. Every weekday, we hear kids playing outside during lunch and recess. And sometimes there are school events for the parents where we hear music and laughter and raffle numbers being called out. It’s all quite charming

We learned last year that the priest lives in an apartment attached to the school. Aha, we thought, that explains all the chickens in the yard. I guess the priest likes eggs.

This year we discovered a new resident, a rooster. I say “discovered” because we heard him before we saw him. And heard him. And heard him! This is one enthusiastic rooster. It’s cocorico all day long, which is the French equivalent of cockadoodledoo. Even our friends who live two blocks away can hear him.

But he must be a happy rooster, the only male among a bunch of hens. I imagine he wakes up every morning and says to himself, “Baby, I’m going to go forth and multiply!”

A Provençal Bottleneck

We were driving to a nearby town when we suddenly found ourselves in a long line of cars, all stopped for some reason. The road bent about 20 cars ahead so we couldn’t see what the problem was. Road work? An accident? An alien sighting?

We checked Google Maps to see how far ahead the blockage was, but it said everything was fine. That meant that whatever happened was so recent that Google hadn’t yet caught up. This ruled out road work, and we didn’t hear any sirens that would indicate an accident, so I was really hoping for that alien.

Then traffic started to move and when we got around the bend, we saw what had caused the slowdown: a shepherd had moved his flock from one side of the road to the other. But of course! This happens regularly.

Maybe we need some sheep-crossing signs.

 

Where do the French go on Vacation?

France is the world’s most popular tourist destination, but where do the French like to take a vacation?

It is probably no surprise that France is their favorite destination, whether it is for a summer or a winter holiday. But what about other countries?

A French travel organization reports on this every year, including information on who is rising and falling (Vietnam is climbing the ranks!)

To get an idea of French taste in travel, you can read about it in My French Life!

Rest Stops in France

If you are driving through France and need a place to stretch your legs, use the facilities, and maybe get something to eat, where do you go? Especially if there is not a decent-sized town for miles?

The answer: an aire.

An aire is what English-speaking countries call a rest stop, motorway service area, lay-by, or something similar. Aires are generally clean, convenient, and well-maintained.

Like rest stops, there are different kinds of aires in France.

Read about aires and how to find them in The Good Life France!

A Magical French Sculpture Park

Charente-Maritime is a small département in western France, wedged between Bordeaux to the south and Brittany further north. It makes up part of France’s Atlantic coastline and is best known for places like the fortified seaport of La Rochelle and Île de Ré, a favorite vacation spot for Parisians seeking sun and sea.

Charente-Maritime also hosts Rochefort, where artisans painstakingly recreated Hermione, the frigate that Lafayette sailed to bring aid to the American Revolution. And it was on the nearby island of Aix that Napoleon last touched French soil before his exile in St. Helena.

But not all of Charente-Maritime’s charms are seaside. If you go inland a few miles, you’ll find a little-known treasure: one of the world’s great sculpture parks, Les Lapidiales.

A History of Stone

The region has been a source of stone since Roman times, and near the town of Pont-d’Envaux sits an abandoned quarry that has been worked since the 12th century. It is in a quiet area, in the middle of a forest—not a place you would visit unless you had a reason to.

In 2001 Alain Tenenbaum, a local artist, created that reason. He had the idea of turning this quiet spot into a sculpture park. So he began raising funds and when he had enough he started inviting sculptors.

One of the features of the quarry is that it is full of vertical walls, perfect for carving. Tenenbaum separated the quarry into zones, each with a different theme, then let the sculptors have at it. The walls of the quarry are big—some as high as six meters—so the carvings are very large.

Step by step, year by year, the quarry was transformed. Dozens of sculptors from around the world came and carved, each leaving their mark. And the results are quite extraordinary.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dHPBfVfXEeQ

But there’s one problem: the quarry has run out of space.

A Galaxy of Art

So Alain Tenenbaum, never one to rest, had a new idea. He would create a sister site, La Galaxie des Pierres Levées (the galaxy of raised stones.)

Near Les Lapidiales, Tenenbaum built his new sculpture park, this time in a large field. The theme is world culture, featuring art from the five continents. Tenenbaum has arranged hundreds of stone pedestals in the form of a spiral, as his idea is to create a showcase of art, expanding ever outward like a galaxy.

Every year, 5-7 sculptors are invited to be artists in residence. They are given a monolith—a block of stone about 2.5 meters high. This they carve over a period of several months, and the resulting sculpture is mounted on one of the pedestals in the galaxy. To date there are over 60 completed sculptures, with the goal of eventually having 2-300.

World Culture

The program began in 2012 and each year artists are invited from a different part of the world, such as the Caribbean and the Baltic Sea—this year from Japan and Korea. They do their sculpting at the entrance to Les Lapidiales, so you can admire their work as it takes shape, and sometimes have a chat.

The goal of the program is not only to create new art for the Galaxy, but also to share the culture of the artists’ home region. So during their residency, they visit local schools to discuss their country and its culture, sometimes accompanied by poetry readings or short theatrical productions.

Today Les Lapidiales and La Galaxie des Pierres Levées attract over 75,000 visitors a year, but they are big enough that they are never crowded. This is certainly a unique spot to consider for visitors to this western corner of France.

 

A Gem on France’s Mediterranean Coast

It’s one of the prettiest towns on France’s Mediterranean coast and one of the country’s sunniest. But while international tourists flock to Nice, Antibes, and St-Tropez, lovely little Sanary-sur-Mer remains relatively undiscovered.

Sanary was founded as a fishing village in the 16th century. Fishermen still ply their trade there, and today the town is a popular retirement destination for the French, with its bustling shops and cafés and one of the best weekly markets in France.

Read all about this pretty coastal town in Perfectly Provence!

A Dog’s Life in France

Ever since we got married, Val and I have had a dog. First there was Rodin, who moved with us to Switzerland when we took jobs there. Then there was Lucca, who flew back and forth from California to Provence when we started living there part-time. Now it’s Mica, our cute little border collie mix, who has traveled between our two homes plenty of times. 

Mica’s not crazy about the long flight (neither are we), but once she gets to France she loves her life there. And we love our life with her–she keeps us active, helps us meet people, and shares her love all around.

I’ve written a fun little article about having a dog in France that you might enjoy, in France Today.

The Beating Heart of St-Rémy

St-Rémy has a lot of great cafés and restaurants, but there’s one that really stands out: the Bar-Tabac des Alpilles.

It’s not just that the food is good, it’s also that it’s comfortable any time of day. Whether it’s a coffee and croissant before hitting the weekly market, a glass of wine in the afternoon, or a delicious meal, you can find it here. And even more, it’s an important part of the local fabric of St-Rémy, while also being welcoming to tourists.

Sitting at your table, you might hear Americans on one side of you discussing their travel plans and, on the other side, there will be workers unwinding after a long day. Patrick, the owner, calls his place “A mix of modern tourism and local identity.” It’s family-friendly, and I often see kids there with their parents, having a Coke or a juice. It’s a must-stop for your next visit to St-Rémy.

Read all about it in Perfectly Provence!