A Beautiful Art, Wine, and Food Center in Provence

Just minutes from Aix-en-Provence is a site unique in the region: Château La Coste. Whether you enjoy food, wine, art, or all three, it is definitely worth a stop.

Twenty years ago, Château La Coste was an unremarkable winery set in a beautiful location. Then a new owner decided to change things up. He dramatically upgraded the quality of the wines, hired the world-famous architect Tadao Ando to design an art center, and invited sculptors from around the world to work their magic around the property. Oh, and he added six restaurants, a luxury hotel, and a wellness center.

Today Château La Coste is a definite stop to add to your Provençal itinerary, whether for a meal, a stay, or just to taste wine and enjoy spectacular artworks.

Read all about it in Frenchly!

The Liberation of Aix-en-Provence

The 1944 D-Day landings of Normandy began the liberation of France, and the country has been celebrating this and other important events throughout the year. The latest is Aix-en-Provence, which just opened an important photo exhibition called Shadows and Light. This show, which runs through October 27, includes many rarely-seen photos from the years immediately before, during, and after World War II.

Taken from the historic Ely photo collection, visitors will see images that will alternately surprise, shock, and delight them. Many of the photos were taken surreptitiously, when photography was prohibited during the Nazi occupation.

If you are not able to visit Aix but would like to see a sample of the photos from the exhibition, check out this article in Perfectly Provence!

Candlelight Concerts in Provence

Imagine sitting in a comfortable seat in an ancient Roman city. As the sun sets, you can see thousands of candles among the ruins, perched on stone walls, stairs, and fallen columns.

The sky darkens and the candles begin to glow. Then a string quartet comes out and starts to play beautiful music. It is an experience that can only be described as magical.

My wife and I enjoyed that magic in June in the ancient Roman city of Glanum near where we live St-Rémy-de-Provence. It was part of a series of concerts being held this summer throughout Provence, and they promise to be spectacular!

Read all about these summer candlelight concerts in Perfectly Provence!

The Best Beaches in Marseille

No trip to Provence is complete without a stop in Marseille, one of France’s largest cities and a major port. It has long been a point of entry for immigrants, making for a rich and varied local culture.

Marseille is the home of some of France’s most important churches and museums, and has tempting food establishments around every corner. And don’t forget the views! Gazing out at the Château d’If, perched on its little island surrounded by the sparkling blue sea, is nothing short of spectacular.

One of the downsides of Marseille is that it can be oppressively hot in the summer. Luckily, its long coastline means that Marseille has plenty of beaches, several close to the city center. Most are free and have services like bathrooms and first-aid stations, as well as lifeguards on duty during the summer months.

Read all about the beaches of Marseille in Frenchly!

Destination Christmas: Strasbourg vs Provence

Strasbourg is known as “the Christmas capital of Europe,” with its festive mood, lights and holiday magic. The city gives you the feeling that if you were to bite into any of its buildings, they would taste like gingerbread and chocolate.

But is it the best place to experience a real French Christmas? I think not.

In Provence you’ll find festive local markets, colorful parades like the bravade calendale, and santons galore. There won’t be the crush of international tourists you’ll find in Strasbourg, and the weather will be much better than way up north.

One of my colleagues and I recently faced off, each arguing for our favorite Christmas destination. Who’s right? See what we have to say and decide for yourself!

Read all about it in Frenchly!

 

Biking Among the Vines in Burgundy

Burgundy is home to some of the world’s greatest wines, where names like Montrachet and Nuits-St-Georges set wine lovers’ hearts a-flutter. The wines are produced in a region of almost otherworldly beauty, where you’ll find one charming village after another nestled among the vineyard-covered hillsides. For anyone who loves great wine and beautiful scenery, Burgundy is a must-visit part of France. 

Not only is Burgundy a mecca for oenophiles, it is also wonderful place to go for a bike ride. Val and I recently rode along the Voie des Vignes (Vineyard Way), a route that runs through some of the most famous vineyards in the world, starting in Beaune. We pedalled along a 22-km portion and it wasn’t too hard because we rented electric bikes. You can do it, too!

Read all about it in France Today!

Secrets of St-Rémy #6: Animal Traditions

My wife Val and I live part of the year in St-Rémy-de-Provence, a charming town between Marseille and Avignon. I’ve written a guidebook about the area, An Insider’s Guide to Provence, where I share some of our favorite things to see and do. This series of articles is based on my book.

Many Traditions

The people of Provence have a deep respect for nature and for the animals that have long been integral to their rural life. And they maintain their traditions, many of which have to do with animals.

One is the transhumance, where thousands of sheep march through town, baaing all the way. Bands play as they go around the town’s ring road, accompanied by shepherds, sheepdogs, and the occasional goat. It’s like a river of sheep!

Another is the festival of St. Eloi, the patron saint of horses. On his day, plow horses are cleaned up, brushed, and wear flower and colorful harnesses. Then they are blessed by the village priest and march through town in a big procession so everyone can admire them.

And let’s not forget the course camarguaise, where little doodads are tied around a bull’s horns and brave young men have to run up and take off the doodads. It’s very exciting and surprisingly, no one gets hurt!

Read all about it in My French Life!

The Apt Market in Provence, One of France’s Best

If you’d like to visit one of the best markets in France, don’t miss the one in Apt, the capital of Provence’s Luberon Valley. Don’t just take my word that Apt’s market is something special: it’s been named one of France’s 100 “exceptional markets” by the French National Council of Culinary Art. Not bad!

The market is the biggest in the Luberon Valley and is also historic—it goes back to the 12th century. It has everything you want: wonderful fruits and vegetables, olives, cheeses, wines, honey, flowers, colorful tablecloths…the list goes on and on. During the peak summer months, nearly 500 vendors sell their goods—if you can’t find what you are looking for, it may not exist!

Read all about it in Perfectly Provence!

Go Off the Beaten Path in France

I recently joined several other Frenchly writers for a webinar where we shared some of our favorite things to see and do in France, those that might not be on the usual tourist agenda. We discussed Paris, Provence, the Dordogne, and other beautiful parts of this beautiful country.

The webinar is about an hour long, and things get going at about the four-minute mark (after various commercial announcements.) It might give you some good ideas for your next trip here!

You can watch the webinar here.

The French Pharmacy is the Traveler’s Best Friend

Let’s say you’re vacationing in France and have a medical problem—not a serious one like a broken leg, but still something that needs attention. Maybe you’ve fallen and scraped your leg. Or maybe you’ve got a scary-looking rash, or a headache that won’t go away. Your dream vacation is ruined! Where can you turn for help?

You might think of finding a doctor, but that’s hard to do on short notice. Instead, go to a pharmacy, the first line of defense in the French healthcare system. The staff there will be able to help you with many of the problems that might occur during your vacation.

French pharmacies can be a traveler’s best friend, but they are different from American pharmacies, and it’s important to know the differences.

Read all about it in Frenchly!