Category Archives: Tourism

A Seaside Lunch on Provence’s Côte Bleue

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Whenever Val and I get a taste for great seafood, we head south to the little port town of Niolon. It’s just a few miles west of Marseille but could be in another world.

The town is built around a small calanque, a kind of tiny fjord that opens onto the Mediterranean Sea. There are boats bobbing in the water and beautiful views of Marseille and the rugged coastline.

We always head for La Pergola, a restaurant with fabulous views and even better food. There’s nothing like eating fresh seafood and looking out at the sea from whence it came. And if we don’t feel like driving all the way to the coast, we can catch the train not far from St-Rémy and enjoy the view as we roll along.

Read all about Niolon and La Pergola in Perfectly Provence!

Destination Christmas: Strasbourg vs Provence

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Strasbourg is known as “the Christmas capital of Europe,” with its festive mood, lights and holiday magic. The city gives you the feeling that if you were to bite into any of its buildings, they would taste like gingerbread and chocolate.

But is it the best place to experience a real French Christmas? I think not.

In Provence you’ll find festive local markets, colorful parades like the bravade calendale, and santons galore. There won’t be the crush of international tourists you’ll find in Strasbourg, and the weather will be much better than way up north.

One of my colleagues and I have debated which is the best Christmas destination. Who’s right? See what we have to say and decide for yourself!

Read all about it in Frenchly!

France’s 3 Digital Art Centers

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Val and I visited Bordeaux this spring and saw something really remarkable: a former Nazi submarine base that had been turned into a digital art center. It was incredible! Beautiful art was projected onto the walls and reflected off the water, while lovely music played. Something that had once been a place of war had been turned into a place of beauty. It was the highlight of our visit.

This is one of three such digital art centers in France. There is also one in Paris, inside an old factory. And the place it all started is in Provence, in an abandoned quarry inside a mountain. They are all fantastic places to visit, brilliant and creative and so French.

Read all about them in France Today!

A Dog’s Life in France

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Ever since we got married, Val and I have had a dog. First there was Rodin, who moved with us to Switzerland when we took jobs there. Then there was Lucca, who flew back and forth from California to Provence when we started living there part-time. Now it’s Mica, our cute little border collie mix, who has traveled between our two homes plenty of times. 

Mica’s not crazy about the long flight (neither are we), but once she gets to France she loves her life there. And we love our life with her–she keeps us active, helps us meet people, and shares her love all around.

I’ve written a fun little article about having a dog in France that you might enjoy, in France Today.

A Beautiful Art, Wine, and Food Center in Provence

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Just minutes from Aix-en-Provence is a site unique in the region: Château La Coste. Whether you enjoy food, wine, art, or all three, it is definitely worth a stop.

Twenty years ago, Château La Coste was an unremarkable winery set in a beautiful location. Then a new owner decided to change things up. He dramatically upgraded the quality of the wines, hired the world-famous architect Tadao Ando to design an art center, and invited sculptors from around the world to work their magic around the property. Oh, and he added six restaurants, a luxury hotel, and a wellness center.

Today Château La Coste is a definite stop to add to your Provençal itinerary, whether for a meal, a stay, or just to taste wine and enjoy spectacular artworks.

Read all about it in Frenchly!

Candlelight Concerts in Provence

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Imagine sitting in a comfortable seat in an ancient Roman city. As the sun sets, you can see thousands of candles among the ruins, perched on stone walls, stairs, and fallen columns.

The sky darkens and the candles begin to glow. Then a string quartet comes out and starts to play beautiful music. It is an experience that can only be described as magical.

My wife and I enjoyed that magic in June in the ancient Roman city of Glanum near where we live St-Rémy-de-Provence. It was part of a series of concerts being held this summer throughout Provence, and they promise to be spectacular!

Read all about these summer candlelight concerts in Perfectly Provence!

Questions People Ask Me

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Val and I live part-time in St-Rémy and I’ve written two guidebooks about the area, so I get lots of questions about the town. Some come from family and friends planning a trip to the area, some come from readers who are looking for a bit of advice.

The questions cover all sorts of topics, like the weather, transportation, and where to find great food and wine. One woman wanted to know where she could find the best poppy fields, and a gentleman told me he was moving to France at age 80! I never know what kind of question I’m going to get.

Read about the questions people ask me at Perfectly Provence!

The Best Beaches in Marseille

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No trip to Provence is complete without a stop in Marseille, one of France’s largest cities and a major port. It has long been a point of entry for immigrants, making for a rich and varied local culture.

Marseille is the home of some of France’s most important churches and museums, and has tempting food establishments around every corner. And don’t forget the views! Gazing out at the Château d’If, perched on its little island surrounded by the sparkling blue sea, is nothing short of spectacular.

One of the downsides of Marseille is that it can be oppressively hot in the summer. Luckily, its long coastline means that Marseille has plenty of beaches, several close to the city center. Most are free and have services like bathrooms and first-aid stations, as well as lifeguards on duty during the summer months.

Read all about the beaches of Marseille in Frenchly!

Favorite Picnic Spots in Provence

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Val and I live part of the year in St-Rémy, a little town at the base of the Alpilles Mountains. One of our favorite things to do is taking a picnic lunch as we explore Provence’s beautiful little nooks and crannies. Over the years, we’ve discovered many lovely places to eat outside, and nothing is better than picnicking with our friends…and our dog Mica, of course.

I’ve written an article about seven of our favorite spots, like the one on the shores of a lake created by the Romans. And the one with the best view of Avignon. And my favorite, the one so high up you look down on the hilltop village of Bonnieux, with a fabulous view of the Luberon Valley.

Read all about them at Perfectly Provence!

Provence: Insider Tips

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This past spring I was the guest speaker at a meeting of the Alliance Française of Pasadena, one of the most active groups in the US. I gave a Zoom presentation about Provence and answered questions about the life that Val and I live there.

It was a fun session, with lots of good back and forth, and you can watch the recording if you’d like. There are a few minutes of club business at the start that you can skip if you want; I come on at about the four-and-a-half minute mark.

Here’s the link!