Category Archives: Tourism

Only in Provence: An Insider’s Guide

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Provence is a magical corner of France, with unique sights, surprising legends, and a rich Roman, Jewish, and Catholic heritage.

Would you like to walk through a rainbow? See magic inside a mountain? Learn about the “Babylonian captivity” of the Popes? You can do it all in Provence.

Maybe you’d like to explore France’s best Roman sites, or the country’s oldest synagogue, or visit the grotto where Mary Magdalene spent her last years. Again, you can do all that in Provence.

To learn more about this most distinctive of French regions, read my series Only in Provence in My French Life!

Secrets of St-Rémy #6: Animal Traditions

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My wife Val and I live part of the year in St-Rémy-de-Provence, a charming town between Marseille and Avignon. I’ve written a guidebook about the area, An Insider’s Guide to Provence, where I share some of our favorite things to see and do. This series of articles is based on my book.

Many Traditions

The people of Provence have a deep respect for nature and for the animals that have long been integral to their rural life. And they maintain their traditions, many of which have to do with animals.

One is the transhumance, where thousands of sheep march through town, baaing all the way. Bands play as they go around the town’s ring road, accompanied by shepherds, sheepdogs, and the occasional goat. It’s like a river of sheep!

Another is the festival of St. Eloi, the patron saint of horses. On his day, plow horses are cleaned up, brushed, and wear flower and colorful harnesses. Then they are blessed by the village priest and march through town in a big procession so everyone can admire them.

And let’s not forget the course camarguaise, where little doodads are tied around a bull’s horns and brave young men have to run up and take off the doodads. It’s very exciting and surprisingly, no one gets hurt!

Read all about it in My French Life!

The Apt Market in Provence, One of France’s Best

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If you’d like to visit one of the best markets in France, don’t miss the one in Apt, the capital of Provence’s Luberon Valley. Don’t just take my word that Apt’s market is something special: it’s been named one of France’s 100 “exceptional markets” by the French National Council of Culinary Art. Not bad!

The market is the biggest in the Luberon Valley and is also historic—it goes back to the 12th century. It has everything you want: wonderful fruits and vegetables, olives, cheeses, wines, honey, flowers, colorful tablecloths…the list goes on and on. During the peak summer months, nearly 500 vendors sell their goods—if you can’t find what you are looking for, it may not exist!

Read all about it in Perfectly Provence!

The Beating Heart of St-Rémy

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St-Rémy has a lot of great cafés and restaurants, but there’s one that really stands out: the Bar-Tabac des Alpilles.

It’s not just that the food is good, it’s also that it’s comfortable any time of day. Whether it’s a coffee and croissant before hitting the weekly market, a glass of wine in the afternoon, or a delicious meal, you can find it here. And even more, it’s an important part of the local fabric of St-Rémy, while also being welcoming to tourists.

Sitting at your table, you might hear Americans on one side of you discussing their travel plans and, on the other side, there will be workers unwinding after a long day. Patrick, the owner, calls his place “A mix of modern tourism and local identity.” It’s family-friendly, and I often see kids there with their parents, having a Coke or a juice. It’s a must-stop for your next visit to St-Rémy.

Read all about it in Perfectly Provence!

See the Best of Provence in One Week!

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Provence is one of the most popular regions of France, and for good reason—think fields of golden sunflowers and lazy afternoons sipping rosé. Visitors flock to two main areas, the glamorous Côte d’Azur in the east, and the lavender-scented western part made famous by A Year in Provence.

These are so far apart that it’s hard to cover both in a week, so I’ve written a guide to the western part, home to famous towns like Avignon and Aix-en-Provence. It provides you with an itinerary with a mix of historical sites, charming hilltop villages, and some of the best restaurants in Provence. The stops are in no particular order, so you can mix and match as you please.

Read all about it in Frenchly!

Go Off the Beaten Path in France

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I recently joined several other Frenchly writers for a webinar where we shared some of our favorite things to see and do in France, those that might not be on the usual tourist agenda. We discussed Paris, Provence, the Dordogne, and other beautiful parts of this beautiful country.

The webinar is about an hour long, and things get going at about the four-minute mark (after various commercial announcements.) It might give you some good ideas for your next trip here!

You can watch the webinar here.

Great Olive Oil in Les Baux-de-Provence

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If you’d like to taste some of the best olive oil in Provence, look no further than the Moulin Castelas, situated just below the famous fortress of Les Baux-de-Provence.

Castelas is owned by Catherine and Jean-Benoît Hugues, a French couple who lived in Arizona before returning to their native country when they “fell in love with some old olive trees.” The Hugues make their olive oil much like a winemaker makes wine, with great care at each step of the process. And the results are spectacular: Moulin Castelas has won top awards in national and international competitions.

In addition to pure olive oils, Castelas produces oils infused with different flavors, like rosemary, basil, and citrus. And unlike some producers, they don’t just add chemical flavorings to their oils. Instead, they macerate them with ingredients, for example adding fresh rosemary to their olives before milling them together.

The Castelas staff is friendly and English-speaking, and welcomes you to taste all the olive oils you like. You can also tour the olive mill itself if they are not too busy.

Read all about it in Perfectly Provence!

 

The French Pharmacy is the Traveler’s Best Friend

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Let’s say you’re vacationing in France and have a medical problem—not a serious one like a broken leg, but still something that needs attention. Maybe you’ve fallen and scraped your leg. Or maybe you’ve got a scary-looking rash, or a headache that won’t go away. Your dream vacation is ruined! Where can you turn for help?

You might think of finding a doctor, but that’s hard to do on short notice. Instead, go to a pharmacy, the first line of defense in the French healthcare system. The staff there will be able to help you with many of the problems that might occur during your vacation.

French pharmacies can be a traveler’s best friend, but they are different from American pharmacies, and it’s important to know the differences.

Read all about it in Frenchly!

 

7 Reasons to Visit Provence this Spring

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Provence is a highlight of any vacation. This magical corner of France, with its charming hilltop villages, magnificent beaches, and delicious foods, is a must-see for the discerning traveler.

While Provence is wonderful year-round, it is especially nice in the springtime. I’ve put together a list of my top reasons why you should visit…though there are certainly more than 7!

Read all about it in Frenchly!

Secrets of St-Rémy #5: Favorite Hiking and Biking

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Val and I live part of the year in St-Rèmy-de-Provence, a charming town between Marseille and Avignon. I’ve written a guidebook about the area, An Insider’s Guide to Provence, where I share some of our favorite things to see and do. Now I’ve put together a series of articles I call Secrets of St-Rémy, based on that book.

St-Rémy sits at the foot of a small mountain range called the Alpilles. They are criss-crossed with hiking trails and quiet country roads, perfect for hiking and biking. And the surrounding countryside is nice and flat, ideal for easier walks and rides. Val and I have favorite routes that we look forward to every year.

Want a cool, easy walk on a hot day? Or one with fabulous views that will get your blood pumping? Or how about a bike ride to an airport where you can watch gliders take off and land? I’ve got all these and more!

Read all about it in My French Life!